NIIED, Hwachon Elementary, Seoul Tower

Last week we were given a lecture by the National Institute for International Education about English education in Korea and afterwards we took a field trip to a rural elementary school to see what schools outside of the city of Seoul are like and also to observe an English class that was being taught by a U of M alumnus, Brian Lee. The presentation and the school were both very interesting. I was most surprised by the fact that the rural elementary school, which only had 36 total students and consisted of grades kindergarten through sixth, was far better equipped and much nicer than every elementary school that I have seen in the United States. It was also a lot of fun watching the English class being taught by Brian. The kids seemed to be very enthusiastic and were having a lot of fun.

Later that evening, we went to Seoul Tower to have dinner with one of Jennifer's former students, Jae-Hyun. The tower itself was very pretty and not only had a lock bridge like the one in France where couples write their names on a lock and then attached it to the fence, it also had entire steal trees that were covered from top to bottom with locks. It was really cool. The restaurant we ate at was inside the tower and provided a great view of the city, as well as an all-you-can-eat buffet that was full of delicious food. One of my favorite parts about the restaurant was the mens restroom. The urinals, which can be seen below, were positioned so that you could look out over the city while you were there. I thought it was really creative and funny :P

Men's Restroom in Seoul Tower Restaurant

Wednesday, May 23rd - Halmoni Protest/Nakji/Baseball

As the May 16^th post stated, that day we were suppose to attend the Wednesday Demonstration of the Halmonis but were unable to find the Japanese Embassy in time for the protest. After being able to tour the War and Women’s Human Rights Museum, our group understood more about the history of the comfort women. Today, we had planned accordingly and left earlier to make our way to the protest, in which was a very moving experience. Once we walked up to the protest, we noticed the Japanese Embassy; the same building that was pictured in the museum, and four of the Halmonis sitting in observance at the front of the crowd. One speaker at a time was talking to the crowd using speakers, either talking about their organization that they would like the crowd to get fight for, or speaking to introduce another person. After another organization was announced and talked about, a man was introduced whom would play music. It was at the moment when this flautist played that recollection and history of the War and Women’s Human Rights Museum flooded everyone’s minds. The protest was loud enough for the Japanese Embassy to hear; yet all but two windows were closed, and no one entered or exited the building during the hour-long protest. As soon as the protest was over, our group wanted to meet the Halmonis, so we found our way through the crowd and asked the ladies for a picture with them; they said yes!

Four of the Halmonis

Speakers at the Wednesday Demonstration

Japanese Embassy

Flautist

Pyeonghwa-bi (Peace Monument)

 (a picture of our group with two of the Halmonis - coming soon!)

After eating our lunch for the day, our group headed to the Norangjin Seafood Market. Upon exiting the Metro (subway) the lovely smells of the seafood were present, and as we walked closer, the smells of course were stronger. Some people, unlike others, could handle the smells, but what a sight there was to see! So much different seafood to buy, and many of the crabs, squids, and fish were larger than you’d think, taking over an entire tank’s width. There were rows upon rows of merchants selling their seafood. As many of the group members requested, we searched for a merchant to sell us a live octopus so that they could try the delicacy of nakji (live octopus). After finding a merchant, the lady tried to sell us three octopi for a cheaper price, but three was way too many for the brave souls that wanted to just try it; we were finally able to buy one. We then asked the lady where a restaurant was located so that it would be chopped up for serving; as she led us to the restaurant those who were not trying the nakji debated on who would go into the restaurant to video tape and take picture – the debate ended with our whole group sitting in on the excitement that was to happen! J Nothing really more can be said – this video will say it all.

Soon after all the excitement of watching our group members eat live octopus (nakji), a few of us made our way to Jamsil Stadium to watch a baseball game, the LG Giants against the Nexen Heroes. We at first took the wrong Metro subway stop and got of at Jamsil, thinking we would find Jamsil Stadium upon exiting the subway, yet after all of our snack buying, we talked to a lady at the information center and realized we needed to get off the Metro at the Sports-Complex subway stop, oops! On our way back into the subway we made sure that we would get off at the correct stop. Finally we arrived to Jamsil Stadium, and we were sure this time with all of the thunder sticks we saw people carrying around. Not sure which line to choose in order to purchase our tickets, we chose one hoping to be the right one, only figuring out that it wasn’t the “cash” line, but the “credit card” line; they let us buy our tickets anyway, but we won’t ask what the cashiers were thinking of us, ha! Finding food and our seats was not that much of a challenge, and neither the excitement. The LG Giants side of the stadium seemed to be more energetic, but our group, being on the Nexen Heroes side, showed just as much excitement for the game. We all sang along with the cheers and songs – although we did not know the words, but who cared when everyone was yelling anyway! J Our group very much enjoyed the new experience of the Korean baseball game along with the atmosphere and excitement that it brought!

Thank you for reading! :)

Tuesday, May 22nd. Women's Rights and War Museum

Women’s War Museum-Entire GSP Group

                To find the Woman’s Rights and War Museum we had to, “travel off the beaten path.”The obscure location of the site is reflective of the current state of public discourse surrounding the violation against woman’s rights during WWII—such discourse is the less traveled road towards redemption and reconciliation. Everything about the building of the site to the contents is representative and symbolic of the struggle and pain caused by Japanese Imperial Army and violations against women throughout the world.

                The imagery and intention of each room was very provocative and stirred many emotions inside me—mostly those of pain, fear, and despair.  The black silhouettes with a blossom tree contained within to me represented the innocence, life, and love inside each individual. They were still flowers even though their light and life had been blotted out during this horrible experience. The somber position of the figures, their blackness; the blossom tree; the concrete wall; the gravel and sound of footsteps all prepared the dark period we were to enter.

                The dark, moist, and dank stench in the basement is still an unbelievable experience. The woman interviewed revealed a lot to me. Drawn by the lines on her face and the piercing look in her eyes I saw a history and a story of anger, sadness, contempt, and deep emotional and physical pain. Others may have seen different things, given each of our experiences and perspectives each of us may have interpreted her differently.

                We left the darkness and entered the light, but the struggle wasn’t necessarily over—in fact it had just begun. The darkness had passed but the pain, learning, and reconciliation process is still going on. The museum is also a means of educating individuals about the “comfort woman issue” and providing historical evidence of sexual-slavery during the War. The issue is still refuted and denied by some Japanese individuals today, perhaps more than we would like. We can’t forget that this was an intentional and organized system of sexual slavery. We have also learned that violence against woman and children and the violation of Woman’s rights are directly correlated with war and conflict amongst countries. The museum represents the past, but also a better future for the generations who see this place. How can we avoid and prevent such things from continuing to happen?

                Members of our group had strong emotional reactions in different ways; some cried and others remained silent but remained attentive. I believe all of us thought and felt deeply that day. I wondered how people connected to the museum, and in what manner people experienced the content. Many stated they were angry about the situation. Angry and frustrated that the Imperial forces could have done this, and that today it is still denied. Others had much more personal experiences to the content.

Food for thought:

                I wonder what other perspectives could provide us with a change, or further development towards a solution? We discovered that many players are contributing to the conflict we see today, not only the Japanese government. For example, the Korean government has continued to resist the process as well. In some way it has actively tried to sweep the issue under the table. We also discussed the position of the U.S. and how it could do more to make a serious impact. Just a thought, but how do the North Koreans view this issue?

                The difficulty is putting thought and feelings of deep emotional significance into practice. It requires a way to connect personally to the experience and maintain the feeling day in and day out. How do you actively practice change in your life? What difference will you make in your behavior when you return home? Will people notice that you are not the same person you were when you left three weeks ago?

~May you all blossom and flower into beautiful human beings.

Monday, May 21st: Trip to Osan Air Base

Osan Air Base: Dante,Tracy, and Jameesa

                The Trip to the Osan Airbase started off with a bit of excitement, but towards the end the day it turned into an enjoyable and memorable trip.

                Traveling to the airbase was very sobering. For me, it was a refreshing experience to travel during the morning hours and pass by fields of rice patties and farm land. The experience of feeling the wide open space around you, sweating with the hard sunshine beating down, smelling the warm musty air, and the sound of trains in the distance is truly a remarkable feeling.

                To begin the day, to all of our dismay, our lovely Hau-mo-knee (spelling phonetically, so please excuse me) could not enter the Airbase due to lack of two forms of identification. Sadly she had to retreat to Naksongdae and join the rest of the group in Incheon (which actually isn’t a sad thing at all, J). The three of us joined Eric and Captain Lynn Khel on a trip around the base.

                 I found Lynn’s blunt and honest style to be a refreshing reminder of the Wild Wild West, a.k.a our home the United States. Throughout various periods of the day the group divided along gender lines, allowing for personal experiences and dialogue to develop. The girls were shown some of Lynn’s favorite shopping locations, while Eric and I bonded as males.

                After an initial tour of the base we had lunch with Lynn, Eric, and a friend of theirs Officer Van Dam. He shared his experience with us and offered his perspective on various questions we had for him and the group. Van dam wanted to meet us, because he was also a graduate from Michigan. I think he enjoyed being reminded of home; he was from Grand Rapids (Lena, Hau!). Go Blue!!

                The base is a self-sustaining community. Korean and U.S contractors are on base to provide all the essential needs of life back in the U.S. Business is done in U.S. dollar and so are some shops surrounding the base. The community is certainly geared towards satisfying the military population, you can find many Koreans who will speak to you in broken English. Soldiers are never far, you will undoubtedly run into one eventually.

                We had an opportunity to visit the highlight of the base, the Airfield. We visited shopping centers; community facilities; Eric’s living quarters; Lynn’s house; and a golf course with a huge and very old Ginko Tree. We were also able to engage with some of the military community by participating in a Taekwondo class. Afterwards we discussed the difference in performance and discipline between the American and American-Asian students. There was quite a noticeable difference—I think Lynn referred to the American (white) kids, as “wild heathens” (or something along those lines)…. I think you get the picture though.

                I felt this was the first time Tracy, Jameesa, and I were really able to connect and spend time together. I felt that we were able be together and enjoy ourselves. I think it was a good experience for Tracy to be near something familiar, since she has a friend serving at Osan Airbase currently. For me it was another opportunity to evaluate my options, and consider what I would like to do after I graduate with my Master’s. Joining the military as an officer is a path I have been seriously considering lately. Jameesa was a great participant and really asked good questions of our guides. I enjoyed her presence, and loved that great laugh of hers (you know the sort of pulsed eh eh, followed by a big smile).

                Towards the end of the day I gave the old ginko tree a big hug, we ate dinner, and we walked through the warm air to the train station together.  The girls stayed behind for shopping, I said goodbye. It was a great day.

                I would like to leave some food for thought. Throughout our trip we have heard from many different perspectives regarding the U.S. military presence in S. Korea. We have become aware of the positive and negative impacts, opinions, and facts. We have seen with our own eyes the situation here, and listened in first person the personal experiences of people on almost every side of the story.  The one perspective that remains elusive is that of the women who are trafficked and exploited.

                Though we don’t have every perspective, I think some of us may have been able to start formulating an image of the situation. And my question to the group is… what do you believe? How do you feel about the situation, given the perspectives of all those we have met?

                For example, do you think it’s inevitable to stop the trafficking and prostitution? To Eric and Captain Khel this is a reality of life.  What do you think?

                Do you think that U.S. presence is preventing N. Korea from going to war again? To the Allied Friends speakers, U.S presence is doing more good than harm, and preventing any large scale attacks from N. Korea. As we have seen there isn’t any visible presence of tensions in daily life, does that mean anything?

                Who do you think is right? Who do you think is wrong? There doesn’t necessarily have to be a right or wrong, or even a correct answer.  Rather where do you stand on the issue? What are the perspectives or new information that we are missing that could resolve the multiple conflicts that we see?

p.s  Oh and we held our hearts and stood quietly to the sound of the National Anthem, Yay U.S.A!!

Monday, May 21 - Incheon

I didn't take any pictures today, so here are some funny pencil cases from Coex.

Hi again! Today my post will be shorter because we didn't have as many events. However, there are still some interesting things that happened. We lost three people to visit the Osan Air Base today, but the rest of us enjoyed a relaxing day in the suburbs.

After Korean class and a delicious breakfast at Angel-in-us Cafe, we hit the road toward Jennifer's parents' apartment in Incheon. It took quite a long time to get there so most of us caught up on some of our sleep on the way. When we arrived, we were surprised that the area we were in is considered the suburbs. "Suburbs" to Michigan residents usually means lines of  houses with front lawns and the occasional strip mall, library, and police and fire station. But these suburbs were brand new, 30-story apartment buildings and the same wide streets we see downtown.

The apartments we went to were set up facing inward toward several recreational areas that looked really nice. We took the elevator up to the 29th floor. My ears popped, and the view from the window was striking. Jennifer's mom welcomed us warmly into the beautiful, luxurious apartment she and her husband call home. It looked like a hotel room, with high quality dark wood floors, advanced technological features, and tasteful decorations. After resting for a bit, we went to eat lunch.

Jennifer's mother took us to a lovely Chinese restaurant. We all sat at a circle table. I had a separate vegetarian meal, but I could still visually appreciate the others' meals. It was course after course of different flavors and textures. Personally, I felt that my own meal tasted very different from American-style Chinese food, but it was good. It had different spices than what I am used to with Chinese food, and was more mild. However, some students tried 짬뽕 (jjambbong, a noodle soup) and experienced extreme burning spiciness in their mouths. Overall, everyone enjoyed their food and left with full tummies.

Next, we toured around the apartment facilities. Living there looks so convenient! There are various playgrounds for kids and adults, parks, a fitness center, a 7-11, and an enclosed area for mothers to wait for their children returning from late-night hakwon sessions.

Overall, I think we were all impressed by the elegance of the community, and very thankful to Jennifer's mother for opening up her home to us and taking time to show us around!

Saturday & Sunday, May 19-20 - Temple Stay

This weekend provided a bit of a break from the rest of the trip - it was more relaxed and slow-going, which we all appreciated after running around Seoul so much. We had the opportunity to participate in an over-night Buddhist temple stay at the Lotus Lantern Temple (and coincidentally, this weekend was the Lotus Lantern festival, which celebrates Buddha's birthday!).

Saturday we woke up and traveled to the Buddhist temple, which was about a three-hour trip. Once we arrived, we were instructed to put on certain attire provided by the temple, which was to be worn until we left. This consisted of a grey vest, along with very roomy grey pants. Afterwords, we had orientation which gave us a basic overview of the temple along with rules, such as when to be quiet and what not.

After orientation, we had a short break until we heard the ringing of the block signaling dinner time. At dinner, we were not allowed to speak and sat on comfy pillows on the floor. Food was served buffet-style, and I must say it was all pretty good. There was one or two times where I took something I did not end up liking, however because you need to be courteous we were required to eat all that was on our plate anyways.

Next we headed to a stadium to celebrate the Lotus Lantern festival. The event started off with some very good musical performances, along with a b-boy (breakdancing) group. The crowd consisted mainly of families, monks, and military men. After the performances, a monk went on stage and began the ceremony recognizing Buddha. Overall the experience was very interesting, and although we could not understand what he was saying, the general idea was understood.

When the ceremony ended, we had one more surprise before the night was over - we were going to be in a parade! Each of us received a paper lantern along with a candle to be lit inside, and walked along with the rest of the crowd to celebrate the festival. It turns out we were the first foreigners to participate in the parade in the last 10 years, and so the locals were very excited about the whole thing. Some of us started to even do a (kind of cult-like looking) movement of our arms to the beat of the band playing, which the locals got a kick out of. At the end of the parade, we gathered around an area where sky lanterns were being distributed. I must say, I loved this experience where we all lit the fire to fill up our sky lantern and watch them fly away together (and we almost lit a tree on fire, but that didn't happen, so no worries...). After the sky lanterns, prizes started being raffled off, such as bikes and toilet paper. Two of our very own group members won frying pans - congratulations Ayesha and Lena :D! Afterwords, we headed back to the temple and slept.

We didn't get to sleep long though... we had to wake up at 4AM the next day! We went to the temple, and joined in the morning chants the monk chanted. Afterwords, we headed over to a room nearby to meditate for a little over half an hour. Meditating was a bit tough, mainly due to how tired we were at the time. However, it was still a cool experience, and I enjoyed the time to relax. Coming up next was more chanting, specifically the 108 prostrations. This was optional, but most of us participated. The ceremony involved us to execute a full-body bow 108 times while the monk chanted the entire time, and for many of us this was a workout. I was shocked to find out that monks sometimes perform up to 3000 prostrations during their training.

We received a much-needed break, and had breakfast (I couldn't believe how much we had already done before eating breakfast - it was a very productive feeling). Then we had a short tour of the area around the temple, where we got to see rice fields and the pets the temple takes care of (which is unique to this temple - most temples do not allow pets). We came back and had tea time, where we got to ask the monk any questions we had. The monk was very open, and it was a great opportunity to get to know him more. We then had the chance to practice our calligraphy skills and copied sutras in Chinese characters, Korean characters, and English.

Next I got to participate in a unique activity as it was my birthday. I had the privilege of offering rice to the Buddha, before the rest of the group came and we participated in more chanting. Afterwords, we had lunch and then cleaned our rooms before heading out. The monks were very nice and offered to take us to the most-popular temple, which we eagerly accepted. Typically you have to pay to visit this temple, however since we had monks with us, we basically had VIP status and could just keep driving in. While we were short on time, we had a nice informative tour of the temple. We also had the opportunity to see and perform bows to the Buddha within the oldest temple of Korea.

Overall, the experience was amazing and we all really appreciated it :). It was great to experience another part of Korean culture, and participate in it first-hand. It will definitely be one of my fondest memories of Korea.

Thursday, May 17 Panel on Academic Life

As part of our 18 day program, Shannon asked us to participate in 2 sessions of her US study abroad workshop series. The first of the two that we had the opportunity to be in was on Academic Life. Majority of the students that attended the workshop were graduate students who wanted to continue on with their masters or PhDs in the United States. However, since many of us have worked in a research lab or in a setting with graduate students we were able to answer basic questions. The major concerns that I noticed were regarding respect and hierarchy. In Korea, there seniority and ranking is highly addressed in almost every regard. The conclusion that we came to was that Americans tend to value experience over age. It was interesting and different to have to discuss our own culture in front of others. We tend to do things without thinking because it has become our natural way of life.

After the panel, a few of our students went to the university's English Cafe. This is were students come to practice speaking English. While there, us American students had to practice as well. We had to enunciate our words and speak slower than we would to each other. One of the things I personally learned was that although English education is highly cherished in Korea, most students only focus on the reading and writing. Therefore, many of the students mentioned that they could read and write better than they could speak. Overall, have the opportunity to help some Korean students practice heir English was a great experience. Who would have known that knowing English was such a privilege.  :)